Many of us who lived in Johnson County in the ’80s and ’90s can remember Rockitz, an iconic traditional American diner right off interstate 80 by the West Liberty exit. I’m pretty sure Fonzie frequented there, or some scene of American Graffiti was shot there. The diner didn’t make it past the turn of the century and it sat empty for 18 years. Other businesses would spring up in the neighborhood and quickly fail.
I moved out to Cedar County in 2020 and my daily commute to Iowa City now takes me past this former diner every day. After moving there, I quickly learned that the gas station that sits nearest this diner is owned by a Punjabi family, and rather than give my money to Casey’s (who are known to have funded Ted Cruz and Steven King’s campaigns), I personally feel much better about buying my petrol from the immigrants that make Iowa a great place to live.
So, I’m pumping gas the other day, staring off into the sky, and I noticed that this typically dead-ass diner, once eroded and forgotten by time, now had a marquee sign above the entrance reading “New Taste of India.” I did that thing you see in zombie movies where you drop the gas handle and slowly approach to be sure it’s not a hallucination. A miracle had appeared before my hungry eyes. Instead of funding another Republican campaign, my gas money would now make hot paneer dishes in West Liberty, Iowa of all places.
The Punjabi family who owned the nearby gas station had been quietly renovating this iconic diner to serve a new community: the growing Punjabi immigrant population that have found jobs in the overworked trucking industry that relies on Interstate 80 for transport. Punjabi immigrants now make up almost 20 percent of the U.S. trucking industry. Although New Taste of India is primarily suited to serve to-go orders, curious and hungry guests are also welcome to have a sitdown meal within this special relic of a building.
There is a surprising amount of leftover décor from the diner it once was; rather than overhaul the interior design, they have merely updated it in some fun ways that resemble no Indian place I have ever set foot in. Though the lack of familiarity and cohesiveness in vibe, as the kids say, may be a hindrance to your more ordinary locals, I find it entirely inviting. This is a vibe I can vibe with, and the food is more than adequate. The butter chicken — their most popular dish, according to Harry the owner — is intensely flavorful, with traditional Indian spices. When poured over basmati rice and the perfect garlic naan bread, you, my friends, are in for a series of exceptional bites that you won’t soon forget.
I also tried the egg bhurji, which was new to me. I was pleasantly surprised by a bouncy scrambled egg texture, filled with finely diced peppers and onion and heaps of turmeric.
The menu at Taste of India is not elaborate but wholly sufficient, the prices are fair and the portions are more than enough for two meals. Standard Indian fare is plentiful, even for vegetarians. There is also a small section of Indian groceries, which is where our mango lassis came from. The host even gave us some aloo snacks in the house while we waited.
After dining here twice, I can confidently say I’m eager to return. In an area with little in the way of locally owned southeast Asian restaurants (except for Saap Saap!), getting to enjoy flavors from the other side of the globe within the remains of a traditional American diner is fun cultural experience.
This article was originally published in Little Village’s February 2024 issue.
