Cedar Rapids — the city of five seasons/smells, and home of Iowa’s best pizza scene.
To celebrate the foundational piece of CR pizza that is Leonardo’s (2228 16th Ave SW) let’s take a look at its origins.
The story begins in the early 1950s when Tony and Leo Naso opened Cedar Rapids’ first pizzeria, Naso’s Pizza House. Leo had sold the family grocery store and was running a restaurant called Park Court Lunch when his brother Tony (“the godfather of Cedar Rapids pizza”) returned from California with an idea that became an instant best seller. So they changed its name to Naso’s and were soon ready to expand, with Tony’s Pizza on the east side and Leonardo’s on the west.
Leonardo’s debuted on 16th Avenue in 1953 at the site of a former drive-in. A decade later, Leo’s would move next door into a newly constructed building, where its cave-like entryway, windowless red-and-black-leather interior, sunken bar, party room and giant neon L sign have since become an iconic part of the city.
Two other Leo’s locations would open and close over the years, the owners ultimately deciding to focus on one joint. The original Leo’s would go on to become the oldest family owned restaurant in Cedar Rapids. Then in 2019, after six decades, Leonardo’s was purchased by the owners of the Starlite Room, another historic CR spot. (And the home of the Super Burger!)
As for the food, Leo’s does what I’d call a classic Midwestern tavern pizza. It’s round, triangle cut and generously topped with a thin, biscuity crust. The menu says a deep dish option is available, but I have never seen anyone order it. Sandwiches and appetizers are also available, and they’re probably good — but this is a pizza place.
During our recent visit we were taken care of by Jill, who has worked at Leo’s for 32 years and was wonderful with my 3-year-old. We went with their two most popular pies, the combo (sausage, mushroom, onion, green pepper, pepperoni) and bacon cheeseburger (ground beef with three cheeses, topped with bacon strips and pickle slices). They were perfect as they could be — just tasty pizzas. Truly classic.
I asked my dad about his best meal memories at Leo’s over the years, and a shrimp pizza is what first came to mind. Turns out it’s still an optional topping, along with anchovy and smoked oyster.
My parents were high school sweethearts, both westside kids that graduated from Jefferson in the ‘70s. Back then, Leo’s was a popular hang out and date night spot. The same remained true into the ‘90s for my friends and me. These days, Leo’s has taken on the feel of a quality neighborhood dive — an old-timey family spot and a nostalgic fixture for westsiders.
The mini jukeboxes in the booths may no longer work, but it is still the same Leonardo’s. Come for the amazing pizza, stay for the great vibe.
This article was originally published in Little Village’s August 2023 issue.
