The Hops: Breckenridge Christmas Ale

It is once again time for celebratory holiday beers and winter warmers. While some are sub-par and gratuitous (another excuse to add a truckload of hops to a handful of malts), others gain such praise that they are brewed year-round. Some are even worthy of cellaring and comparing with previous holiday vintages.

Though Christmas Ale, by Breckenridge Brewery of Denver, Colorado, is not necessarily ideal for cellaring, I think it is a well-balanced and excellent winter warmer. It provides a nice malt backbone to satisfy the seasonal craving and offers adequate hoppiness and spice without being too bitter. Unlike many holiday releases, which feature different and sometimes top secret recipes from year to year, Breckenridge’s Christmas Ale, as far as I know, does not change. It was runner-up for my December 2010 recommendation, so I decided it earned the limelight this year.

When poured into a pint glass, it is mahogany brown with copper tones; two fingers of buttery, thick and slightly tanned head dissipates slowly to leave a thin cap. Grapefruit and lemon citrus from the hops dominate the aroma and are seasoned with mellow holiday spices (pine and perhaps cinnamon). Underneath the hops are the malts and sweetness: caramel, cocoa, toffee, and dark fruit cherry. The taste is not as hoppy or spicy as the smell, but the hops provide a nice, bitter bite. The backbone comes from flavors of caramel, a little cocoa, toffee and a hint of coffee.

Honorable mention: Along with Christmas Ale, also try these holiday beers: New Belgium Snow Day Winter Ale, Goose Island Christmas Ale 2011, Goose Island Mild Winter, and St. Bernardus Christmas Ale.