You don’t know unless you try it. It’s cliché, sure, but it’s also the entire premise of Open Sesame, a Lebanese restaurant in Des Moines’ East Village that’s spent nearly two decades convincing Iowans there’s more to eat than pork tenderloin.
Imagine going all your life never experiencing crumbly and warmly spiced falafel, fried with a crisp shell that gives way to a soft, herby center. It’s tucked into pita bread that is slightly charred from the griddle, still warm and pliable. Fresh cucumbers and tomatoes are tossed in a creamy tahini sauce to round out the dish. And if you don’t know that taste… I pity you.
For 17 years, this Mediterranean spot has quietly held its ground in Des Moines, and after one visit, it’s easy to see why regulars keep coming back.
Walking into Open Sesame feels like stepping into a space totally beyond Iowa. The lights are low and rich jewel-toned tapestries hang from the ceiling like the top of a tent billowing down from one central point. The room feels close and warm; there’s a hush that makes conversations feel intimate. It’s moody, and there is an unhurried aura that invites you to sit and chat.
The man behind this beautifully decorated restaurant is Mario Gazali. Drake neighborhood diners of the last 40 years might recall Gazali’s Mediterranean, which closed in 2024, or any number of other restaurant projects Gazali has undertaken in the past.
He learned to cook from his mother, an unofficial teacher he didn’t fully appreciate until later in life, he said. Gazali would pretend to be sick to stay home from school to sit in her kitchen, peeling potatoes and quietly absorbing her cooking techniques.
“It’s like her recipes were transferred to me,” said Gazali, who has six siblings. “[It] registered in my mind for some reason.”
His East Village restaurant was originally called Alibaba, until a dream gave Gazali a different vision for the business. He saw a slot machine aglow with neon lights and billowing gold dust, the words “Open Sesame” printed on it. He woke up at 3 a.m. and called his girlfriend on the spot to say he was changing the name.
Gazali was among the first chefs to introduce Mediterranean food to the Des Moines market, and has spent decades serving customers their first piece of pita bread. To this day, newcomers walk in hesitant, and leave surprised.
“They say, ‘Wow, I didn’t know food could taste like this,’” Gazali said.
He recommends the Lebanese sampler to begin. It gives you the opportunity to try several dishes like hummus, baba ghanoush and grape leaves. For a main, Gazali says the shawarma rice plate is a generous portion and one of their best dishes, with juicy marinated chicken and fresh toppings. I’d suggest finishing your meal with baklava. You can’t leave without trying the buttery, flaky pastry oozing honey and a pistachio filling.
This fall, Open Sesame will introduce more traditional Lebanese dishes to the menu, including a rotating lunch option.
If you’re looking to get out of the burgers and pizza rotation, Open Sesame will impress you plate after plate, in a room built for lingering.
Open Sesame
313 E Locust St, Des Moines
Tuesday-Saturday (lunch), 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Tuesday-Thursday (dinner), 5:30 p.m.-8 p.m.
Friday & Saturday, 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m.
Closed Sunday & Monday
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This article was originally published in Little Village’s August 2026 issue.
