I finish the last bite of lentils I can manage, scooped up with a piece of fresh injera. My friend remarks at my “tumeric-stained lips,” so I get up to head to the washroom.
“Do you want to try some Ethiopian coffee?” our server Asmeret asks me.
Asmeret B. Ayele, along with Bashatu Gutama and her husband Abdissa Tumie, owns and operates Habesha Ethiopian & Eritrean Restaurant in Des Moines. They opened the restaurant at 3500 Merle Hay Rd in April 2025, determined to see more Ethiopian cuisine in the metro.
I return from washing my hands to a gorgeous platter. A chunk of frankincense burns atop a vase next to a small ceramic cup and saucer, a glass sugar dish and an engraved wooden pitcher full of steaming hot coffee. As I pour the coffee, the steam and incense smoke swirl together for a multi-sensory treat. The coffee is incredibly rich and strong. I add just a little sugar, stir it in with a tiny spoon and enjoy the extra indulgence of a little sweetness.
It is Friday afternoon, over the lunch hour. Today, my friend and I are the only ones enjoying the coffee, but on Saturday mornings, Habesha hosts an hours-long coffee ceremony.
Ceremony and ritual feel central to Habesha. The restaurant sits almost hidden in a strip mall on Merle Hay, and the decor inside is very unassuming. Despite this nonchalance, there is a strong air of hospitality that inspires reverence.
I lean into this vibe by ordering hot tea as soon as we sit down. “Before your food?” Asmeret asks, indicating I may have strayed from the ritual a bit, but no one’s too concerned when I say yes. It’s a chilly and gray day and the hot tea — reddish in color and served in a clear glass mug, with heavy notes of cardamom — warms me right up.
We look over the menu and decide on the Habesha Major Combo: “This is a grand platter featuring chickenstew, zigini, lentils stew, collard green, kitfo, tibs and boiled egg served with injera.” I feel it is my duty to try a little bit of everything, so I can report to you, dear readers.
The platter arrives in an elegant and vivid display, all atop an extra large piece of injera covering the entire surface (with more injera on a side plate). It is truly a feast for the eyes.
We begin tearing off injera and scooping up this and that. I start with the zigni (lamb stew), then salad (not explicitly listed in the menu description — lettuce, tomato and red onion salad with vinaigrette), and then work my way to the chickenstew — the centerpiece of the platter, anchored by a drumstick and boiled egg. The meat falls right off the leg, and the bed of spiced stew (almost like a dip or a sauce) provides the perfect flavors.
Throughout the meal, I can’t always identify the flavors. They are bold and complex, but not overly spicy. Turmeric, garlic and ginger have a strong presence on the platter. I especially enjoy the variety of color and texture. All of my senses are highly engaged, and eating with my hands really drives home the aspect of ritual and communion.
The platter can also be made with all vegetarian dishes. The whole menu is very veggie- and vegan-friendly, and quite diverse. Even after a variety platter, I feel compelled to come back and try a few more things, including a full serving of the zigni.
After our coffee we exchange hugs and contact info. Habesha offers catering, and my friend wants to use them for an upcoming event. We leave with the impression we’ve just experienced a very special banquet, and made new friends.
Gutama came to Des Moines in 2009. She said she has always cooked, and it was a dream to open a restaurant. I feel very fortunate to have the opportunity to partake in the success of this beautiful dream.
This article was originally published in Little Village’s March 2026 issue.
