For 2024, “stale, cheesy cocktail bars” are out and “vibey, modern cocktail bars” are in. The Bartender’s Handshake located on Ingersoll in Des Moines is no stranger to the latter.
Walking in, you’re greeted with moody lighting and the soft murmur of both conversation and music that elicits speakeasy vibes. The bartender behind the beautifully crafted wood bar top shakes up an artfully curated cocktail, chatting with a couple across from them.
After arriving, I found my spot across the bar: a red leather booth with the perfect view of the dimly lit space, and small tables that could easily be pulled together for our party of four. A server came to greet us with a smile and inquire about drink orders. Now, this isn’t your average drink selection. The menu ranges from a lengthy list of house cocktails, “outside influences” curated specialties, boilermakers, handshakes, spirit-free concoctions and so much more.
One of the best things about Bartender’s Handshake is their attention to detail when it comes to every cocktail. Each one is unique, from taste and texture to color and presentation. As a fellow gin and rum aficionado, I found myself ordering the To Thursday, a cocktail made with Appleton Estate Rum, orange spice tea syrup, grapefruit, lemon and cava. This small but mighty drink balanced tangy, sweet citrus with a hint of spice. It was refreshing and made for the perfect starter.
My company for the night were sticking to their New Year’s resolutions and ordering from the “Spirit-Free” side of the menu, including two Vacation Emails and a Karate Kid. The Vacation Email was exactly how you’d expect it to be, sweet and tropical — the feeling you get when you set up your automated OOO email responder. Karate Kid packed an ancho chili and minty kick — a welcome surprise for the tastebuds.
Conversation flows easily at the Bartender’s Handshake, which has a gentle, warm atmosphere reminiscent of spending time in your grandparents’ low-lit den. Beyond the mid-century, retro architecture and design are hints of modernity. A small disco ball above the window booths spun slowly, catching the lighting and reflecting it in soft sparkles.
The bartender checked back with us throughout the night to refresh our waters and give us recommendations based on our preferences. Noting that most of us were NA for the night, she referred to their business’s Instagram account, which had recently spotlighted a new drink using a beverage called Ghia. This non-alcoholic spritzer is inspired by the Mediterranean, with notes of botanical extracts. Being the trend-followers that we are, we ordered two and absolutely loved them.
For my second drink, I decided to go a different route from my usual preferred liquors and order a Drink Up & Be Somebody. This particular drink is mixed with Famous Grouse scotch, Aberlour 12-year scotch, Lustau Amontillado sherry, White Creme de cacao, banana-maple and chicory pecan bitters. What was a daring drink order for me turned out to be a warm, mildly sweet favorite of mine. If you’re not a huge fan of scotch, but are open to exploring your cocktail palate, Drink Up & Be Somebody has an inviting taste of this hard liquor and is similar to a piece of drunken banana bread.
If you’re looking for a spot in Des Moines to catch up with an old friend or spend time with your significant other, Bartender’s Handshake is your new best friend. The comfortable, inviting retro atmosphere will have you wanting to walk up to the bartender and ask for your “usual” like in a classic Hollywood film. Little Village gives this drink spot two strong handshakes of approval.
This article was originally published in Little Village’s May 2024 issue.
